Looking for issue #255 to current, let me know what you have and what you want for them. I'll pay however you prefer.

Thanks for looking,
John

Reluctantly I'm selling off my two PC plunge routers.  

3 1/4 HP

One of them has a nick in the cord but only the housing of the cord was cut.  No nicks in the ground wire.

Both routers have seen very little use.

Variable speed and made in the good old US of A!

$225 each plus shipping

Located in central Indiana


   

   

   

I cut some pressure treated lumber for a project and set it on the table saw for the weekend.  BAD idea.  Some WD 40 a Scotchbrite pad and about 1/2 hour of time and it is better.  There is some staining.

*Sigh* Well, after some deliberation, I've decided to not do dovetails for my current project...it's just taking WAY too long, I've probably used up more than double the Poplar I originally thought I'd use, and I'd like to finish this project since it's been and on and off again for over a year now. I'm a bit disappointed, but I've seen even guys like David Marks do drawers with other joints before, so I know I don't have anything to be ashamed of at the end of it all. What is the best joint for a drawer box other than dovetails, though? I'm also including finger/box joints as a joint I don't want to do, as I'm not in the mood to build another jig right now.

Also, I think most of my difficulty came from the fact that I was using no guides for my saw this time around...several years ago when I did my bedside tables, I used a homemade guide, and even though my skills with marking out the joints have vastly improved since doing some research, I still have trouble making perfectly square and plumb cuts where those are needed. I even got a new one of the dovetail saw I already had, and my cuts are definitely straighter (gotta make sure to take better care of this one so the blade doesn't get bent), but I still need to practice more before I'm ready to do a large volume of dovetails in a project context. What are some practice routines that can help build muscle memory with doing these joints by hand? I know this is an arbitrary line for me to draw, but I feel like if I'm going to be truly skilled at cutting dovetails by hand, I need to be able to do it without guides (not to sound like a snob, but it's just a level I won't be satisfied until I reach). However, would guides help me build muscle memory? I don't plan on being like Rob Cosman or anything, but I'd like to, sooner than later, become proficient and consistent at cutting dovetails by hand without guides.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Greetings all!

Surprised and somewhat astonished to realise it's about 20 months since I last posted here. I'm not quite sure what happened but one day I locked up the shop and didn't go back. No real reason... some minor health issues, a cold spring, a missing mojo - whatever. But I've been hankering after it lately, the shop is sitting there waiting, and the mojo may have returned! Certainly, there's a blanket chest waiting patiently for hinges to be fitted.

Good to see so many old familiar names still posting, and to see some of you still on the right side of the turf - hi, Jack!. To those of you who blog, I have been faithfully following - hi, Bibliophile Steve! And to everyone else, I'm looking forward to catching up with your recent adventures, tool rehabs, and estate sale and flea market plundering.

In cleaning out my shop, I came across some duplicate issues of Fine Woodworking magazine.

They are:

• May/June, 1989, No. 76 
  
• July/August, 1989, No. 77 
  
• June 1990, No. 82
  
• February, 1991, No. 86 
  

Hey, I am building a table and I want to do breadboard ends by hand. I am planning to use a cross cut back saw to establish the edge and chisel out the waste cleaning up with a router plane. I do not own a shoulder plane or any type of rabbeting plane. Is it possible to clean up the 90 degree angle without a shoulder plane? I don't mind buying a tool but I'm open to ideas on how to clean up the 90 without owning a shoulder plane. Thx!
Eli

Going through my junk email and found a Grizzly 10% coupon, but good only through 10/31. First PM gets it.

Backsaws

• Pennsylvania saw Corporation No 78          Blade 14"             12 TPI            $ 45 Plus shipping  40 +shipping
  

• Hardpoint  Tenon Saw    $ 15  Plus shipping  $ 12+ Shipping
  

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Here are pictures of the first pens we made. I made the walnut with maple inlay on the bottom my son made the bubinga in the middle and my daughter made the cherry one on the top. They came out much better than I thought they would. The kids are loving making pens. The near instant gratification of a pen makes them so much fun. 

Turning got easier this weekend. I had to make a trip to Woodcraft for some items and my son said to get the round tip carbide tool instead of some other steel tool. That cuts real nice. I also picked up a Norton 3X stone for the grinder. I don't have any fancy jigs for the grinder so I just lined up the tool rest with the angle on the tool and gave it a shot. I don't have any problems with heating the tool too much. My old craftsman variable speed is easily stopped with out much pressure. Doing this by hand they look better than what the previous owners had done to them. The chips now come flying off those tools. The kids and I had a lot of fun together making these pens this weekend. I have a more elaborate blank gluing up for a pen for my wife. I will turn it tonight.