I built a down draft table that I also let run as an air cleaner when I'm done in the shop.

Very nice!

That joint looks great!

How do you prevent the edges of SYP from crumbling? The stuff I have must be 30-percent pitch and the rest molded sawdust. We rarely see Southern Pine here in the Pac. N.W. What I have is an HD special on short clears.

Cle-ver!
Ag

I've reached a point where I want to organize my fasteners and hardware, and I'm not sure how to proceed.

I think that it comes down to a spectrum of very simple to very complex.

• Option 1: get a few containers, let's say one for nails, one for screws, and perhaps one for washers, brackets, hinges, and everything else.
  Option 2: perhaps organize everything down to the "hardware store level", with very many containers and all organized down to minute details.....length, thread type, stainless vs zinc, finishing nail vs common, etc.
  Option 3: somewhere in between

Not about the bevel gauges...

My suggestion on laying out the tails: Don't.

Instead, I always recommend a little practice using scraps, to learn to cut parallel to a line, or to two lines or more:



1. Number your practice cuts.
2. This will give you some idea how your dovetail saw is doing, and whether you must do a little tuning first.

For very small boxes (smaller than a dovetail jig will handle easily), I sometimes use a shop-made dovetail marker, with slopes more severe than is "normal":



Al

But much of the time I simply eyeball the angles. Try it, after practicing following parallel to a line.

Also, I suggest you keep your practice joints:

I recently attended a Chris Swarz seminar where he used a #4 with a 55* frog on some old mahogany with great success. I emailed him about which degree frog it was and he said to first try the tight setting for the chip breaker because that has a significant effect on taming 'squirrelly' grain.
I also talked to Bill Khor at Craftsman Studio who said putting a 10* back bevel on the blade of a #4 would be about as effective as a high angle frog. The problem with higher angle is that it requires considerable effort to push.
I'm in the process of trying both suggestions.....tightening up the chip breaker setting works great.... and I bought a new blade to put a back bevel on to see how that works. I'll let you know asap about that experiment. But, I'm sure, there are others here who will answer the question for both of us.....profusely...
good luck,

Don

Alaric said:

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... I decided to take the card scraper to the dresser. I have to say, I'm converted. Fast. Efficient. Beats the hell out of sanding. And smooth as can be. I did hit it with the sander afterwards, but I swear the sander roughed it up.

... Somebody's handiwork from long ago is all set for a new life.

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A small (18-24" diameter) wooden wheel styled after the sailing ships would be great, especially if you built it.