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| Whos done mortises on a router table |
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Posted by: Wayne G. - 11-07-2014, 08:00 PM - Forum: Woodworking
- Replies (9)
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I've done a few that way, but found it awkward at best and it felt potentially dangerous. I also found the bit changed position slightly every time I raised up the router, so the resultant mortise had little steps in it which is not good. So I built a horizontal router mortiser for about $50. I've cut hundreds of mortises with it over the past 3 years. Fast, safe, accurate and repeatable. And it does a whole lot more than just mortises, too. You can spend money on some commercial jig or machine but there's really no need.
John
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| 360Woodworking.com is open... |
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Posted by: Sandal Woods - 11-05-2014, 12:47 PM - Forum: Woodworking
- Replies (3)
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360 seems right. They turned around and started something new, that was the same as what they were doing before.
Now, what Popular Woodworking did to these guys sucked, but I don't see this idea taking off...
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| Hey Wilbur! |
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Posted by: Gregory of Sherwood Forest - 11-03-2014, 09:03 PM - Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools
- Replies (1)
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Gregory of Sherwood Forest said:
I'd like you to recommend a GOOD, but not overly expensive Japanese smoother to me. Something with a good, thick and wide iron that will be ready to go out of the box, maybe with a light honing being all that is needed. My sharpening skills are up to the task of any metal, so no need to tread lightly on that account.
Here’s the issue with Japanese planes. They don’t come ready to go out of the box with a light honing, as Lee Valley or Lie-Nielsen planes do. They come 95% set up, with the expectation that the woodworker buying the plane will finish the set up in his/her shop. The Japanese plane that is “ready to go out of the box, maybe with a light honing being all that is needed” doesn’t exist.
The reason for this is that Japanese planes have a body made of wood and yet are capable of being set up precisely enough to take very fine shavings. In order to do this, the plane has to be acclimated to the environment it’s going to work in, and there’s almost no chance that the environment where the plane is made has the same humidity and temperatures as your shop.
Luckily, setting up a Japanese plane is not that difficult. I always say that if you can fit a mortise and tenon joint, you can set up a Japanese plane. Conditioning the sole isn’t difficult, either. If you can flatten a board, you can condition the sole of a Japanese plane.
Here’s what I’d do. Check out my writeup on setting up a Japanese plane, or this series of YouTube videos on setting up a Japanese plane (part 1, part 2, part 3) so you can get an idea of what the process is like. It won’t take as long as the length of the video, since a lot of the video is not actual time spent on setting up the plane, but on explanation. At this point, I can take a Japanese plane out of the box and get it set up in about 60 minutes, depending on how close the blade is fit.
At that point, if you still are looking to give Japanese planes a try and want one new out of the box, I’d get a 70mm Ishihisa plane from Hida Tool, which is currently $206. If you plan on mainly working with North American hardwoods, get a 60mm Ishihisa with the blade at 45º, which is abbot $245. It’s not that you can’t use a Japanese plane bedded at the typical 40º for hardwoods, but the 45º model is more forgiving. The reason for a 60mm blade is that the 45º plane is harder to pull due to the increased bed angle.
Note: the Hida Tool website lists the 45º plane as out of stock. Give them a call. They should be able to get one for you.
Alternatively, you could consider getting a Kotobuki Tsunesaburo plane from Schtoo at Tools From Japan. This would be the beginner plane I would consider, and the size/angle considerations would be the same (70mm/40º or 60mm/45º). This will be about $180-200. The main reason I recommend the Ishihisa is that I actually have and use that plane, and I haven’t used this particular Tsunesaburo plane.
Also, you could work on getting the Japanese plane you have into working order. That process is pretty much the same as setting up a new plane, except that often used Japanese planes have a body that’s moved enough that the blade sits too low. In which case, glue a shim onto the bed so that the blade now sits high, and then proceed as if you’re setting up a plane for the first time.
P.S. I checked out how much Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen planes are going for. It’s nice to see that Japanese planes can be the value proposition. 
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| Saw sharpening DVD |
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Posted by: Ken P - 10-28-2014, 08:07 PM - Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools
- Replies (3)
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I have "Sharpen Your Handsaws" by Ron Herman and its quite good. There is also a very good video by one of our members here. His name is Andy. If I can find the thread, I'll add it.
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| Mico miniature drill press rehab and machinist help needed. |
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Posted by: Mr_Mike - 10-24-2014, 07:14 PM - Forum: Woodworking Power Tools
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Not the kind of item you are going to find on Ebay every day, a replacement shaft. Which would be the easiest.
Bending it back into position, and NOT having it screwed up worse as a result, is unlikely but I suppose possible.
Which leaves having one made as a one off. Which is so expensive you had better know someone who will do it for a bbq dinner and materials. A home shop machinist, a really good one, is what you need. Maybe make a listing on your local craigslist or something. There is maybe somebody out there....
It's too nice a machine to just scrap..
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