I've had a rosette cutter for years sitting on the shelf. The drill press just couldn't handle it- too much runout, chatter and didn't have the power, so I put it away.
I started looking to see who had a better way and ran across the idea of using the metal lathe instead like your post here.

So I mounted the stock in the lathe and went to town. Takes only 8 seconds to cut this way with no chatter and plenty of power.

I can whip these out by the dozens now.

trimaster
resaw king
both great

Send a note to BlackHawk Industrial (used to be sanders tools)

1506 Luthy Drive Peoria, IL 61615 Toll Free: (800) 397-TOOL Phone: (309) 692-2666

And see of they will sharpen your Woodmaster CT.

Is this saw for sale?

I've thought of doing the same thing Ken. I have the ghosting issue, too, though no problems with clips on my Delta 18x36 keeping the sanding roll in place. I'll look forward to taking a look at yours and seeing some comparative samples next time I get up the hill. I wonder how well it will work for sanding shop sawn veneer and maintaining very tight thickness control.

John

With the right material it would be an interesting exercise in black smithing. It would require some forging and shaping beyond a grinder. A slick is a pretty specialized tool. What do you need one for? How about finding an old 2" chisel and making a longer handle?

In my case, I have a couple #2's because I have young children. It fits their hands very well, and they really enjoy using them. The narrow blade means they are easier to push, and the full tote and knob makes it much easier to get a positive hold onto, much better grip for them than a block.

In the interests of full disclosure and forthrightness; I also would own at least one anyway, just because it fills out the set and looks good on the plane till.

I have GOT to get me one of those. Not sure why other than I want.

Are you doing it and then finish turning?

I've built several of the WOOD design, and still think that's the best looking one out there. The woodworking is straight forward, and the only real 'challenge' in the WOOD plan is laminating the arms, and I'd expect the FWW plan to be the same. I'll also say that the cushions/upholstery can make or break the chair as a place somebody will actually want to sit.

Google "FPL-046 natural finish" - use the one revised in1979. I use it without stains on my outdoor woods. I've also varied the wax content. It works pretty well as is.