I am going to insulate my shop ceiling and walls.
Below is a picture of the space before we bought the house.
I don't want to use drywall on the ceiling for a number of reasons. Weight, difficulty (one man project) as well as ease of installation. The space is full of tools now. I plan to have some things hanging from the ceiling like my air scrubber, shop lights, and storage.
I can leave unfaced insulation in the ceiling and meet code.
I want to cover it with something to keep the insulation in place and not have fibers falling on me. I think that I need something that will breath so I am thinking about tyvek.
the soffit is covered with perforated panels and there is a ridge vent on 50 percent of the roof peak.
What do you think about the proposed ceiling insulation?
Thanks
I am covering the walls with faced insulation and drywall.

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I got an advertisement for the Milwaukee M18 air compressor:  https://toolguyd.com/milwaukee-m18-fuel-...40-052020/

It claims to be able to drive up to 1,600 nails per charge. 

Does that make more sense than a cordless nail gun?

Ok, the eyes are getting a bit weak as I get older and I've had it with the cheap plastic lens versions and have decided to purchase a Donegan Optivisor, which I have heard is one of the best; the visor and lens go for around $48.  My use would be primarily for sharpening saws, but it could be useful for other fine work as well.  I know I can buy another lens, but individual lenses go for $35+ alone, so I want to pick the optimal/most useful size at the get go.

They sell by Xx magnification and focal length, and I'm stuck between a 2x with a 10" focal length, and a 1.75x with a 14" focal length (they have other focal lengths at 4, 6 and 8" which I think are too short).  For those of you that have them, which did you pick, and did you wish you had picked a different focal length? 

Thanks in advance for the input.

Every time up to now when I have replaced a toilet fill valve I have replaced the hose that goes from the fill valve to the water shut off. And, every time I do this I wonder if I should have just used the old hose since there really was nothing wrong with it. 
What do you guys do? Are these hoses meant to be re-used? Or does the seal take a set from the old fill valve?  

How much should I tighten these?  I think I had been using 3/4 turn after the seal contacts.  

Thanks

I made this cabinet to fill the corner where our couch and love seat meet in the living room from a walnut tree I helped take down last year.  





Quite a few challenges but with lots of time on my hands with the virus lock down it gave me something else to focus on.  The larger panels are shop sawn veneer on Baltic birch plywood.  For the curious, all the bent laminations were done on a single form.  Here's a shot of the form as I was gluing up the laminations for the drawer front.



A RAS is a lifesaver at times.  I used it to cut the door widths to final dimension.  Not sure how else I would have done it, but I'm sure it would have been harder.  



The sides are somewhat visible so I used frame and panel construction for them.  




I rarely use butt hinges on cabinet doors, but they seemed like the appropriate choice for this cabinet.  



The drawer slides on a single, center undermount slide.  I used some ambrosia maple I milled last year for the drawer sides.  



The finish was Transtint Dark Walnut dye in DNA applied by hand with a stain sponge.  Best method yet for doing it by hand.  Those applicators are terry cloth over a foam core and it holds plenty of dye solution without dripping so you can do larger areas quickly.  The finish is Arm-R-Seal satin, 4 or 5 coats applied with a blue shop towel.  



John

Just moved to South Florida where many homes have paver driveways. We bought in a new development and have one, but I have no experience with them.. The sand that is swept between the pavers is slowly  coming out when it rains. I see a few neighbors sealing the pavers. A few others add polymeric sand. Both sealing and polymeric sand get mixed reviews when I read about then online.

Any recommendations?

Thanks!
 Fred

Making progress on the lake house. Most of the drywall is hung and finished. Next step is primng. 

We will be rolling it on the walls and ceilings. Then onto painting the ceilings. 

Any recommendations on brand/type of primer? It has been a long time since I did any substantial amount of priming fresh drywall. 

Kilz PVA?  I have had good luck with the advice and products I have gotten from Sherwin Williams, but thought I better do some research first

Also ceiling paint?  What is good? no textures, just flat drywall, staying with basic white for color.

Is there a good process to remove the black stain from a Stanley 86 screwdriver or saw plate?

This is Dallas. She is a 15 1/2 year old mixed breed that is mostly Collie and German Shepherd. She is a wonderful dog and was part of the package deal I got with my lovely lady friend, Jen.
   
At the end of last year, Dallas got a terrible cancer-related prognosis and was not expected to still be with us at this point. However, she is still kicking strong. She walks an average of 2 miles a day - she recently did 4! I asked Jen if she would be accepting of an urn if I was to build one. So, I went in my shop 2 weekends ago and just looked at the wood I had on hand and started building with no plan. The maple for the top came from the same slab of maple I used for the tops for three jewelry boxes I had already gifted to Jen and her two daughters. Think of it as the next two pages of book-matching. 


This shows the cherry board that I used for the box and the maple piece I re-sawed for the top panel.
     
I did something I never tried before to give base some character. I made the decorative cutouts on my router table as a first step. I basically had 11" and 5" slabs of cherry that I ran perpendicularly (relative to the fence) through a cove bit positioned about an inch from my fence. I made 4 passes progressively raising the bit. I then switched to a straight bit and progressively nibbled away between the coves. It worked pretty good other than the cove bit burning the cherry. I then ripped the slabs and mitered the corners to form the base.


This shows the box before I started finishing it. I put 2 coats of tung oil on everything. Then, several coats of matte poly on the top panel over 3 days (sanding each morning)
   

This is the front of the finished box
   

This shows the bottom. Note the base screws to the rest of the box. 
   

   
   

This shows image shows how the grain travels around the box. I took special care when laying out the cuts on the cherry board that the far left and far right edge would meet in a pleasing way. The joint between the back and the left is the one that came from pieces not next to one another.
   

The sister boxes that were completed in Dec 2018
   

Unlike the first three boxes, I hope that number four stays empty for a long time!

I need to replace an entry door. Everything I find is made for 2x4 construction and the framing here is 2x6. My questions are (1) does it matter which side of the jamb I build out?, and (2) if I build out the interior zide will I still need a sill extension? Thanks!!