Nice job!

My neighbor made one of these about 4 months ago, using some of my tools. He makes great bread and pizzas!

When you had the wheel off could you turn the bearing to see if was turning freely?

It will vary with how much would you're removing at a pass (the chip stuff), and if you're getting a smooth cut I wouldn't worry about it. As for a sharpener, I used Bull Sharpening in Oak park IL (they have a website with their prices).

I forgot all about it this year! Seemed earlier than usual.

Very nice great shape.

It took a loooong time to run down because the blades were free wheeling. They were turning long after your arbor stopped. DAMHIKT

RALPH

The right one looks better to me. The border going under the vanity just doesn't work for me. You might consider a hybrid of the two designs. Take the one on the left, go along the tub and behind the toilet, then come out and finish in front of the vanity like the one on the right. Sorry, I never do things the easy way.

John

Woodworker's Hardware sells Titebond LHG, and the catalog states it has a clamp time of 30-60 minutes. That seemed a little strange to me....I had always though it was overnight. Anyway, I went to their website and checked there. Under "features" it states that "set time" is 12 hours...without mentioning clamp time. I've always used 12 hours as the clamp time for liquid hide glue, but it might pay to call Titebond.

Those are too nice for Kleenex. Well done!

Now get to work on a Falling Waters toilet paper holder!

I discovered rot in the 1x8 trim at the base of two columns on either side of a small portico by the front for to my home. The trim covers a load-bearing pressure-treated 4x4. The rot was caused by moisture, since the 4x4 column (not rotted) and the trim sit on a concrete floor. It’s really just a cosmetic job: I’ve cut away the rotted wood and plan to make a “collar” at the base of the columns. I want to avoid having the trim touch the concrete since the problem will only recur as water is wicked up by the wood. I had planned to simply leave a space of about ¼ inch between the concrete floor and the bottom of the “collar”. But I wondered if there’s a neater way to prevent wicking. One fellow who posted a video dealing with this kind of problem used an asphalt shingle that he placed at the bottom of the post. Looked OK, but I wonder how useful that would be. I’d appreciate your thoughts about alternative fixes, if there are any. Thanks.